Italy, Amalfi Coast
A travel guide that includes Positano, Capri, Amalfi and Ravello. How to get around the Amalfi Coast, boat schedules, hotels, beach clubs, restaurants and locations with best panoramic views.
How to get around the Amalfi Coast?
The closest major international airpot is Naples Capodichino. The train station is Napoli Centrale. I recommend to call an Uber and go straight to Molo Beverello where the boats depart from. A boat to pretty much any spot in the Amalfi coast is more efficient than a car or bus ride especially on high season which is end of May through September. it is quick and dosn't get stuck in Traffic. It could get delayed when water currents are rough, though never happened o me so far.
You can check for ferry's schedule on Ferryhopper.com and because the website pulls the information from all the ferry companies toghether and shows you every possible ride, they charge a 5 euro fee. To save money, once you see the most conveninet schedule according to your itinerary, go to that boat campany's website and book directly with them. Remember to add your pieces of lugagge.
Positano Travel Guide
Positano, this controversial beach town that some find so charming they come back every year, and some find overwhelming and can’t wait to leave, the steep walks through steps and crowds are too much for them. I lived a bit of both worlds. At moments I felt it was the most beautiful coastal town in Italy, and there were instances in which I felt suffocated due to so many people around me. An entire week in Positano was enough for me to understand the fluctuation of crowds and how to avoid them.
Hotels in Positano
Il Caneto
Incredible views, budget friendly, a 15 min walk through a road to the base of town. Family owned, they are very kind and attentive.
Hotel Miramare
Prime location, prices are a bit higher, it gets booked a year in advance.
Positano Travel Tips
Here are my recommendations and tips to have the best time and minimize the stress that sometimes crowds can cause.
How to avoid crowds: Get up early to explore the inside narrow streets of the town. 8 a.m. through 10 a.m. before day visitors arrive. Have a nice lunch and go to the beach for the entire afternoon. Come back to enjoy dinner when day visitors are gone.
Best time for dinner is sunset, this happens earlier as Positano is behind a mountain, calculate an hour earlier to see the colors transition.
There are local buses that run every 30 minutes and they are truly really packed. If you are someone who deslikes crowds this will be a huge downside.
Restaurants in Positano
Ristorante Da Costantino
It is a hike to get to this restaurant, BUT they make the best spaghetti alle vongole that I've ever tried.
Aldo
Can I beg you to go or is it too much? This is a must and even locals recommended this place despite the high popularity amongst tourists since it belongs to Le Sirenuse Hotel. It is an unforgettable experience and it is my favorite view in Positano. Reserve in advance. Perfect for sunset time.
La taverna del Leone
Recommended by many locals, high end cuisine. This is a bit out of the way, you need a bus or vehicle to get there.
Cele
This restaurant is part of the Maricanto Hotel. Very serene and the clean views of the water are gorgeous. Food is excellent as well. Good to go during sunset time.
Il Tridente
Prefered place for lunch, during the day you'll be able to appreciate the beautiful colors of Positano, the flores and the sun sparkling on the water.
Beach Clubs in Positano
Pupetto Beach Club
I love this place, from their stunning restaurant to a viby beach club. The menu is very well thought, including limone sorbetto, and an extensive list of meals.
Da Alfonso
Book in advance. It is not easy to get a hold of them. You need to call them to their hone number and seak to them to rserve a beach chair.
La Marinella
Affordable and no need to reserve in advance, you can show up and pay for a chair. They have a restaurant by the beach and a bar.
Da Arienzo
This is more a kind of bachelorette/bachelor party beach club. They sell packages so you won't be able to rent just a beach chair. Prices start around two undred euros.
Gorgeous views of Positano
Angelo Pasticceria —great for sunset aperitivos too.
Viale Pasitea by Il Capitano
V.G Marconi by Casa Sole
Find the famous Salvatore fruit stall on Via Arienzo 66/80 (type it on google)
Hotels in Positano
Il Caneto
Incredible views, budget friendly, a 15 min walk through road to the base of town.
Hotel Miramare
prime location, prices are a bit higher, it gets booked a year in advance.
Choose your hotel accordingly. Some places that you see on the map are not too close to the beach. If google tells you is a fifteen minute walk, it is probably a twenty five minute walk up hill, with many steps ahead while you are carrying your luagagge under the intense heat. There are roads that don't have a sidewalk, you are literally walking two inches away from cars, buses and motorcyles going by you. If you like strenous walks and your lugagge is not heavy this might not be a problem. I would recommend for a first time traveler to Positano to stay as close as it's posible to the beach. Book in advance to find good prices on those hotels because they get boooked almost a year in advance and all is left are the thousand of dollars a night luxurious hotels. You will be comfortable knowing that you'll get to your stay easily and have access to beach clubs, restaurants and bars within two minutes of walking. You won't have to run to cacth the local bus that goes on the main road back to your hotel. I did the opposite and learned the hard way. Although I didn't allow this aspect to overshadow my experience, I wished all the time our hotel was closer given I had never seen Positano before. It is very common for seccond time visitors to stay a bit farther and enjoy the calm and a more local ineraction.
Capri Travel Guide
How to get to Capri?
There is no other way to get to Capri than taking a boat. Use Ferry Hopper to find the company that better adjusts to your schedule and resource to that company's website. It is always best to arrive early in the morning, before 10 a.m. At noon it's already very crowded, the heat is higher and you will want to be at the beach.
To get from the dock of Marina Grande to town which is on top of the mountain, you have to take a cable car, the famous Capri Fornicular. There are long lines to get in the cable car and it is key that you get there early as previously mentioned. You can tap and go with credit card, they don't accept American Express.
Via Camerelle is the main street in Capri.
To go to the beaches you can walk or take the local bus. I chose to walk because the line for the local bus and waiting time was too long. There are many steps so it would take about twenty minutes to go back up and fifteen minutes to descend towards the beach.
There are local buses, here is the schedule, routes and more information: https://www.capri.com/en/bus-schedule?path=8
Capri Beach Clubs
La Fontellina
I have mixed opinions about this beach club and while I think spending $300 for a beach chair is a bit excessive, it's always up to you and your preferences. It is true that this is a staple in the island of Capri.
Bagni Internazionali
I couldn't recommend this beach club more. Excellent service, bathroom and restaurant on site. You can have a chair two steps from the water all for $45 per person. To reserve a beach chair contact them through email here info@bagniinternazionali.com and let them know the date, name, phone number and what chair on the beach you want. Payment is done in person at the beachclub, they accept credit cards.
Restaurants in Capri
Lo Scoglio delle Sirene
Lunch with a view right by the water. This is also a beach club but you can eat at their restuarnt even if you don't have a beach chair with them. Reservations are not necessary. Lobster is small but good. Octopus salad is zesty and exquisite.
Al Chiaro di Luna
Upscale food with incredible views. The atmosphere is above and beyond.
Beware that absolutely almost every cafe in the main square of Capri is extremely expensive.
Stays in Capri
Faraglionesi Monacone House
You can choose to have a house for four at a very affordable price given the location, just make sure you book in advance, or you can choose to have a huge villa-style property for an entire family which will cost significantly more but will include an outdoor pool, a beautful terrace with a dining table and many more amenities. Views of Punta Tragara will deligt you every day, and you will be located close to the beach.
Guesthouse La Piazzetta Capri
Simple, economic and right in the twon of Capri. There is a terrace with a nice view to enjoy some outdoor tranquility.
Villa L'Ara Capri
Relatively new, a refreshing outdoor pool. Clean spacious bedrooms, a bar and plenty of outdoor amenities to relax.
Views in Capri
Gardens of Augustus
Marvelous gardens with breathtaking views. Opens every day from at 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Belvedere di Punta Canone
Gorgeous overlook. Type that name on google and follow the directions. The surroiundings while you walk towards it are very beautiful and will make you stop to admire the landscape every five minutes.
Capri Rock Formations and boat tours
There are many, the most famous are:
Punta Tragara and Faraglioni di Mezzo
On the South East of the island you can see this from the beach, by boat and even have a panoramic view of it from the two panoramic views I listed above.
Blue Grotto
There is a wait to see the blue grotto. Boats line up waiting for their turn to get in this small cove and take anything from thirty minutes to two hours. Make sure you book teh first boat that is available in the morining.
Amalfi and Ravello
Beach Clubs in Amalfi
La Gavitella
Also a restaurant,
One fire
Right next to la gavitella. Similar vibes. A boat picks you up from the beach in the morning and then takes you back to your stay.
Food
Pasticceria Pansa
The salami and cheese cornetto is really good. The owners are working at this cafe with everyone else and i makes it really special. It is usually busy.
Limone Sorbetto
This is huge everywhere in the Amalfi Coast but especially in Amalfi town. Lemons are everything and everywhere. Beware that some places don't let you occupy a table if you are two people intending to buy only one Sorbeto and sharing, they might have a policy of one per person so sit down. Ask before you order.
Marea Restaurant
In Ravello. Overlooking the ocean.
Places to see in Amalfi
Besides strolling through the main street of town, going to beach clubs and eating at the restaurants you can visit the gorgeous ravello right next to amalfi.
Visit Ravello from Amalfi. Take this bus https://amicoshuttle.com/en/ and go really fast and straight to Ravello with a guaranteed sit and air conditioning. You can also wait for the local bus, this will be very crowded and doesn't always show up in time. It departs from the main piazza in Amalfi.
Infinity Terrace
Located at Villa Cimbrone, this place is idyllic. Incredible blue views, a clean horizon, sculptures and gorgeous gardens. Check schedule and tickets:
Villa Rufolo
Another place worth visiting in Ravello. They have art exhibits and the interior of the villa can be walked. There are also pretty gardens and nice panoramic views.
Stays in Amalfi and Ravello
Plazzo Avino
Luxurious hotel located in Ravello. Long pool, wonderful views, a few resturant options and bars. They also have their own beachclub by the sea complimentary for all guests.
Hotel Luna convento
Prices for a room change so much depending on what rooms are left and what time of the year you book. Booking very early on you can find a room for a very reasonable price given location and amenities. They have a pool facing the ocean, rught by it. You can enjoy of both at the same time and sunbathe on your beach chair will sipping a nice cocktail.
The Amalfi Coast gets extremely hot and crowded in August due to Ferragosto, the big Italian holiday when all Italians go on vacation for weeks. Anything before or after August will be crowded too but not as terrible as this month. Make sure you wait for the right time to go because this will make a huge impact on your experience.
Happy Dolce Vita!
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