South of France

The mental postcard of the South of France is cliffside beaches with deep blue water, tucked in by a beautiful old edification and covered in peebles, trendy beach clubs and restaurants perched by the ocean where fresh oysters and a glass of provencal wine await to be savored under the pink tones of a soft, calm sunset.

I've been there, wondering exactly where to go in the South of France, which beach clubs to go to -if they are even worth it- where can I enjoy of an outdoor market and what to avoid doing as a first time visitor.

How to get around The South of France:

There are trains that connect the main biggest cities in the South of France and there is public transportation but if you are visiting Saint Tropez, Cassis, and other smaller towns, undoubtedly, you will need to rent a car to make your trip smoother.

There are some truths about renting a car. One of them is that, in most instances, it is more expensive to rent a car with a different drop off location. Sometimes the difference is abysmal and the longer you have the car logically the more expesive.

Now, this is how I designed my route in order to minimize expenses.

No matter if you have a stop in Paris, make sure you land and depart from a big city in the South of France, if this is in your itinerary. I'll share my exact guide with you as an example and to replicate if you are so inclined to.

Land in Nice where there is plenty of public transportation and no need to rent a car. Stay in Nice for a few days and visit close towns using public transportation. Rent a car once your stay in Nice concluded. Drive to Saint Tropez, stay there for a few days. Most stays offer parking spaces. From Saint Tropez drive to Cassis, stay a couple of days. To also experience the countryside in the South of France I suggest to do a roadtrip through Aix en Provence and take the scenic routes. I stayed in Salon de Provence for three days and visited: Gordes and Saint Remy de Provence. Go to Abbaye Notre-Dame de Senaque if is lavender season to see the gorgeous purple fields. I ended dropping off the car close to Marseilles where we took a train back to Paris and enjoyed a day of the French Open before departing in a plane back home.

Nice

In Nice I stayed three days, but I wished I stayed four. What to do in Nice? Where are the good beaches in Nice?

Nice is not small, and it's way better looking than the pictures the internet displays when you look it up.

Where to stay in Nice?

Coer de Nice and Thiers. Anywhere close to Av. Jean Medecin bewteen Rue de la Liberte and Rue de Belgique is safe and good. I didn't think the old town was the right place to stay for me since there ire a lot of bars and drinking hapenning, lots of alleys and dark paths. However, didn't feel unsafe per se.

Spend the first day in Nice walking through the city. Go to Cafe de France for an outdoor table to enjoy the morning buzz and a capuccino. Wonder around this main street, Av. Jean Medecin and instersections. Go back to your hotel to drop off whatever you got, freshen up, put on your bathing suit and head to the beach.

There are two beautiful beaches I recommend in Nice. One of them is Anao Plage. This is a sand beach. Have Lunch at the Anao Restaurant and rent a beach chair for the day. End your night at the popular and yes, touristy, Le Plongeoir. Make reservations months in advance if you want to snatch sunset time. If you want to sit in the outdoor upper floor, dinner is a requierement to allow you there. You can also go for sunset cocktails, but you won't be seated on the upper floor, instead you will be on the ground floor right by th water which is really beautiful too.

Second day in Nice, take a bus to the coveted Eze Village. There are a few options that take you, please check on Google that day the schedule when you search for the route on maps. The buses are not very punctual, sometimes they get delayed a few minutes, but you will be soaking up sunshine in this beautiful place in the world so it doesn't really matter.

Spend the morning walking the village, exploring shops and streets. Have lunch at La Chevre d'Or. Make sure you make reservations in advance. They have three different restaurants, and depending on the weekend of the year they fill up quickly. The whole experience feels like you are in heaven, overlooking the beautiful ocean, the breeze blows while you sip your wine and they bring wonderful dishes to the table.

That afternoon you can either take two buses, or call an Uber from Eze to Saint Jean Cap Ferrat and experience one of the most breathtaking beaches I've ever seen: Paloma Beach. There used to be a beach club that is now permanently closed, so the beach is completely public. It is under some renovations so it's possible that as for now you see a fence or some other working areas, the beach is pure beauty though.

End up the day having dinner at Les Bains du Castel. Right before sunset is the best moment, food is good, though not the kind of fulfilling serving. Cocktails are really good, and being right by the water at this restautant built in a cove feels really special.

On your third day in Nice do a day trip to Monaco. I went to Monaco to experience The Grand Prix -I will be attaching a link to a whole post aside full of color, do's and don'ts during that event- Walk through this beautiful city, visit the Monaco Country Club where often tennis matches are hosted. New National Museum of Monaco is a beauiful place to see. Eat at La Vigie Zanoni Monte Carlo and Maona Monte Carlo. The main beach is Plague du Larvotto, consists in very small rocks that look like sand. Go to the Monte Carlo Casino, though the interior is a bit underwhelming and once you pass security beware you can't take pictures, the facade is worth to stop by.

Go back to Nice and make it simple that night: Go grab a box of pizza from any local shop and eat it by the beach right by Quai des Etats-Unis. Everyone sits by the wall that surrounds the beach and enjoys of watching humanity unfold. People dipping their toes in the water, music, dancing, gatherings. End the night walking through old town in search of some savory dessert.

Saint Tropez

Where to stay in Saint Tropez?

This is the link to the Airbnb I used:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/12920319?viralityEntryPoint=154&s=76&adults=1&guests=1&source_impression_id=p3_1781984905_P3y1oqu9YicFHRNw

The view from the balcony is priceless. Enjoying of a bottle of wine after a long day at the beach, right before dinner. Prices are actually really good and the location perfect.

Saint Tropez is all walkable, except for the beach clubs which are on the other side of town. Some establishments are a bit uphill but nothing too dramatic. It is very easy to map an itinerary, but what's really needed are key points.

I used Airbnb for Saint Tropez and Nice. It is tricky these days because our original Airbnb canceled closer to the date and unfortnately Airbnb refunds you or finds you an Airbnb for the same price that you paid for the original booking, only last minute there are less options an what's left is more expensive. So you end up spending more or staying at a less nice place. I've heard of this happening to many people, Airbnb can be very unique and fun but is a bit risky, basically is not the safest to secure your stay. Always up to you!

Driving to Saint Tropez has to happen early in the morning. Leaving at 9 am or earlier is key to avoid traffic. There is only one road to get in and you could be stuck there for hours.

Restaurants and eateries in Saint Tropez I recommend:

Le Tigrr:

Asian cuisine with a gorgeous view of the sunset. Up in the Hill, this restaurant has a divine terrace, ivy climbing up the walls, the sun coating everything with a resplandecent orange light as it sets. There is a DJ, music is not played too loud and adds the perfect ambiance.

Le Yaca Saint Tropez:

Perfect for a quiet lunch. Charming patio with tables by the pool. Servings are a bit small. It is very peaceful, located right in the heart of town.

Odette:

Another charming place to dine by the pool, not crowded at all. At night lights are dim and the atmosphere is perfect.

Leone Patisserie:

If you want some morning treats head your way to this patisserie, get a pastry, get coffee and slowly walk around town.

Beach clubs in Saint Tropez:

What are the prices for beach clubs in Saint Tropez?

It could range anywhere between 90 and 200 euro depending where you go. This usually includes beach chair and some beverages.

You need a car to go to most of the beach clubs in Saint Tropez given that they are located on the opposite side from the marina/town.

Best time to go to beach clubs in Saint Tropez is between 11 am and noon, and leave by 4/5 p.m.

Lou Lou: Right by the beach, very viby and cluby. Send an email to book and make sure you specify your arrival time. Also good to arrive at noon or a bit earlier.

Gigi Ramatuelle: My favorite by far. Nothing beats the atmosphere. DJ playing the perfect playlist, not too loud which is great. They have a restaurant if you want to sit to eat but also offer a food menu by the pool to enjoy from your lounge chair. This is not right by the beach but they have a path that takes you to it, it's just a five minute walk. To make a reservation send them an email in advance. Let them know the time of your arrival, 11 am or noon is the perfect time to arrive.

Tiki Beach: Right on the beach and by a fully nudist beach, this is really fun and interesting. No pool since the ocean is a few feet away from you.

Marche de Saint Tropez in Place Des Lices, this market works only Tuesdays and Saturdays from 8/9 am to 12/1 pm. depending on each vendor. Many people do daytrips to Saint Tropez just for this market, traffic can be really bad on these days, if you are staying in Saint Tropez you can walk to it. So many antiques and second hand designers.

Vineyards in Saint Tropez:

Chateau des Garcinieres

Much to say about this vineyard, let's start by the breathtaking grounds, horses in the pasture grazing, vines extending through the hills. This family owned vineyard holds so many stories and family memories. This is very special wine and you won't get it anywhere else. I still have my bottle of white. Smooth and so asy to drink.

Chateau Minuty

A field of flowers, pines and stunning nature surrounding you. A cool tasting room to rest from the heat and savor delicious wine that stands out for its freshness and minerality.

Cassis

Where to Stay?

Hotel de la Plage Cassis, perfect location, clean and the views are gorgeous, right by Bestouan Beach.

Cassis is also very walkable, except for Calanque d'en-Vau and vineyards.

Boat Tour: Tickets can be purchased at the main pier. Beware this boats are not allowd to get close to the beach so you will see beaches and calanques from a different perspective but won't be able to bathe.

La Plage du Bestouan:

Gorgeous local beach. It gets packed, people tend to leave between noon and 1 pm for a lunch break. Water is the perfect temperature.

Calanque d'en-Vau

How to get to this precious beach that is tucked in bewteen very steep hills. To access this unique piece of paradise you have to go all the way up in the mountain, and then down. You can either walk to the entrance of the hiking trail, or drive and park your car there. You can also rent a mountain bike, if you do so, make sure to be instructed by the rental on which trail to take with the bike since it is very hidden and it doesn't show on google maps. They have their own gps that guides you. Where to book the bikes? Please asl your hotel/manager of you stay since they usually have a discount with the company.

If you choose to hike It's 30/45 min each way depending on your pace and skills. It is very steep and is full of rocks. It is worth it!

Le Marche de Cassis

The outdoor market open on Wednesdays and Fridays 8am-1 pm. Produce, gifts, clothing, cheese, meat, pastries. Everything you could think of.

Restaurants and eateries in Cassis

Breakfast Club

Fullfilling brunch before heading to the beach and be all set until dinner time.

Les Roches Blanches

Upscale dining, the hotel has a restaurant by the water with a view of the mountains and there is a charming serenade that comes from the bar.

Boulangerie Mr Lion

Go for a baguette and morning pastries, there is a line even early in the morning, waiting time might be ten minutes at most.

Le Petit Oyster Bar

They have an extensive list of oysters and you can choose from different provenance and size. I am often a bit hesistant when eating anything that comes from the sea while I am abroad since I tend to get sick but this was really safe.

Salon de Provence

Where to stay in Provence?

Garrigae Abbaye de Sainte Croix. An old monastery turned into an hotel. It is peaceful and quiet, up in the mountain providing a panoramic view that you can't get enough of. There is a pool and a spa. They have a resturant and a bar. Three nights here is the perfect amount.

What to do in Provence?

Once you choose the perfect hotel to relax, do a mix of slow mornings and heading to tour a vineyard, eat lunch out, come back to your hotel around 2/3 pm and relax by the pool for the rest of the day. After you shower enjoy of a glass of wine and head to dinner at 7 pm. The perfect combination of exploring and relaxation.

Visit Gordes, this old little town up in the hill. Picturesque and simple.

Eat at La Table de la Bastide. This is a highlight in Gordes. A truly core memory. From the moment I set foot in the hotel Airelles to eat at their restuarnt to the moment I left, I enjoyed every single second and remember every minute of it. The views, the breeze gently blowing the leaves on the trees. The calm atmosphere, the service, the decoration. Food is exquisite and drinks are well prepared. Make sure to make a reservation a couple of weeks in advance.

Walk around town and make sure to stop on your way in on the side of the road to admire this timeless postcard.

Explore Aix en Provence, this is one of the biggest towns, don't underestimate the time you need to explore it. One hour won't be enough. You need at least half a day. The old part of town needs to aimlesly be walked and slowly appreciated. These are the kind of places where I love getting lost and just finding a cute little place to eat lunch or dinner. Extremly hard to park a car here. If you see a spot even ten blocks away from your destination, use it. There is a garage close to it, incredibly full and you have to loop around many times to find a spot.

Visit Saint Remy de Provence where famous painter Van Gogh sepnt the last years of his life. The asylum where he was hospitalized can be visited, and the room that he painted can also be seen. Saint Remy was where he painted so many renowed paintings, one of the most popular The Starry Night.

Eat at the main plaza, under the shade of the trees, luckily a blue sky and watch people coming and going.

Parking in Saint Remy is tricky. It is this small town traced in a circle and it gets crowded in the afternoon.

In Saint Remy stop by La Cave Aux Fromages, fabulous cheese store. Never seen so many different types of cheeses so beautifully garnished with flores and herbs. They have different sizes, the mini size is perfect to get an assortment and try them with a baguette.

Go to Maison Bergese to get a baguette to eat with the cheese and even some pastries.

Visit a vineyard in the recognized Chateauneuf du Pape. Chateau La Nerthe is the perfect place to taste wine. You don't need reservations, just walk in and wait.

The best time of the day to visit towns in Provence is always morning but if you chose afternoon and don't care about crowds then you are good.

Hope this Guide to the South of France helps you with your itinerary, here is my Get Your Guide discount code: THWILDVOYAGE5 to use every time you book an experinece through their platform.

Enjoy the South of France!